MrLA

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Yes, Virginia, It Rains (and Snows) in Los Angeles!

The "weather watches" on all local tv stations in which the weather reporters solemnly, gravely tell us of the dangerous rains coming to Los Angeles; It's too cold; It shouldn't be raining this much in November; This is unusual for this time of year; This isn't the weather I signed up for when I moved to Los Angeles.   Even CNN has their anchors soberly commenting on the impending rainstorms up and down the California coast while flashing on a California map.

People, you've learned a fact of Angeleno life:  it rains, often heavily in southern California.  In the mountains and high deserts, it snows most every year.  In Los Angeles, once every 30 years, there'll be measurable snow on the ground, sometimes a foot of snow.  That's something the Greater Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau doesn't want you to know.

The Los Angeles River is not a concrete ditch.  It might look like it.  Some parts of it have trees and grass growing inside it to make you think a pretty nothing of a stream is returning to its original state but the river has always http://www.youtube.com/embed/piRer4CFoWQ been and continues to be the outpouring of massive amounts of rain that hit Los Angeles, usually before Halloween and lasting until early April.  Like most Americans,  Angeleno's memories can be very short.  Only last year did we have one of the heaviest rainfalls ever
http://www.youtube.com/embed/9Z9OI3s5iG0.   This is not merely global warming or climate change.  El Nino and La Nina are bywords of life in Los Angeles.  These alternate 7-year cycles bring chains of record rainstorms, flooding, and snowstorms.  They are the lifeblood of all 17 million of us who live in the Los Angeles area to allow us and the neverending supply of newcomers to live the California lifestyle that films and fiction have created.

Along with Standard Oil and General Tire killing off the Red Car and all L. A. women looking like Pam Anderson on "Baywatch" along Santa Monica Beach, another long-running L. A. myth is that Los Angeles is a desert and would have stayed a desert without importing water.  Go back to Gaspar de Portola's journal description of the San Fernando Valley (hot, dry desert that so many people believe it is) when he and Father Serra first walked through it in 1769, claiming the land for Spain, "...We came upon a valley so full of oaks and junipers that we couldn't see the sun for miles upon miles, so restful and pleasant was our journey through it..."  The San Fernando Valley, covered with oaks and junipers?  It was. 

Rodeo Drive wasn't called Rodeo Drive because either rodeos were held there or because an early fashion designer named Rodeo opened the first store there.   Rancho Rodeo de las Aguas was one of the richest and longest-lasting ranchos and prime Beverly Hills real estate not because movie stars were moving there but because of a group of springs that opened up water to the intersection of Sunset Blvd. and Beverly Drive, right where the Beverly Hills Hotel is today, provided abundant water for settlement.  Slauson Creek, Ballona Creek, Rio Hondo, the San Gabriel River, Big Dalton Wash, Pacoima Creek.  These are not the hallmarks of a desert.  The Los Angeles River used to receive so much rainfall that the river jumped its banks, spilled over and created the riverbed it has today.  It's old riverbed we now know as Ballona Creek. Most streams in and around L. A. still run in the very dry summers in Southern California, even if just a trickle. 

The San Fernando Valley is hot because so many people moved here:   the oaks, junipers, and the wildlife it supported were removed and paved over, denuding the land and making it hotter for people to live.  The same is true for all of the Los Angeles Basin, which used to support forests, abundant game, and a lot of bodies of water before land developers did to it what was done to the Valley.  It became a desert by land development until city governments began planting trees and residents added their own gardens to the mix.

Los Angeles has a Mediterranean semi-arid climate.  That means hot dry summers, mild fall and spring weather, and mild winters, though very wet ones and often cold enough to bring on weeks of sweaters and coats (although no matter how cold it gets, transplants from the East Coast have created L. A. cold weather gear:  down jackets, ski hats, and flip flops).
Yes, the sun is out most days of the year.  Yes, we can have 85 degree clear weather on Christmas Day and New Year's Day that tricks people into believing Los Angeles is a sun-drenched paradise with no other weather.  Guess again!

The Land of Eternal Summer also sees its ground covered with snow, approximately every 25 years. My parents and other relatives would comment about the Great Snowfall of 1949, when they threw snowballs at each other and recorded it in photographs.  Pecos Bill's BBQ on Victory Blvd., near Western Ave. in  Glendale still has photos that it's founder took of the snow surrounding his business in 1949.  By the way, some of the best bbq in this city can still be found there.  I kept waiting and waiting for the next snowfall.  My grandmother had told me about the 1931 snowfall that actually shut down some roads in the city.  By my calculations, I would expect snow in Los Angeles approximately every 20 years.  1969 came and went.  So did 1979.  I thought the snowfall was a great big myth until February, 1987, there was a Los Angeles Herald-Examiner photo of snow patches on the sand at Huntington Beach.  There was a film of snow on my car and those of everyone on my block.  Within two hours of it falling, it melted but it was snowfall.

One of the joys of living in Los Angeles is the beautiful, warm days with clear skies that let you see Catalina Island from Mt. Wilson, fall foliage from the native willow and cottonwood trees in the canyons, and the lush green mountainsides with wild mustard yellow and fire-engine orange poppies carpeting those mountains.  It happens every late fall-through early spring and it's a gorgeous sight to behold.   Skater boys, club hounds, aspiring actors, musicians, and anyone describing themselves as trendy and living from Silver Lake west,  realize the beauty that we Angelenos are given at this time of year is here for everyone to enjoy and that it comes from the sometimes heavy, cold rains that mark our rainy season, which usually runs from just before Halloween to just after Easter, though we can get occasional tropical storms during the summer.  Next time you're "hit unaware" by the rain and you don't understand why there's so much rain, remember,  it rains (and snows) in Los Angeles.  That's something I'll always "sign up" for, although I only want to enjoy the rain from the comfort and reclined position of my bed looking out the window and not on the 405-10 Interchange.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Happy New Year! Here Today, Gone Tamale!



Hola, Everyone!







Happy New Year to everyone! I've been late to post because of recovering from two long flus and the holidays. I didn't let the flu deprive me of a true Los Angeles tradition. No rain, nor sleet, nor visits to the bathroom would deter MrLA from having, eating, and enjoying tamales for the holidays.







As anyone who's lived here for more than 3 months knows, tamales in Los Angeles are as common as actors answering casting calls at Paramount Studios. You can't say you've eaten Mexican food in Los Angeles without eating a tamale. True Angeleno hipsters call it by it's Spanish name: "tamal", which itself came from Nahuatl, the Aztec language that also gave us such other delicious foods as cocoa, tomato, and avocado, all part of the Mexican and Latino food scene in Los Angeles. But you don't have to be a hipster to enjoy the seemingly endless varieties of tamales now for sale at your local Mexican restaurant, Trader Joe's, Whole Foods or Bristol Farms, or the way hipsters in Echo Park, Boyle Heights, and Silver Lake eat them: from men and women who sell them on street corners, piping hot, from Igloo coolers.







MrLA grew up with tamales being only corn patties with chunks of braised pork in red chili sauce, pork in green chili sauce, and greasy (forgive me, Grandma!) sweet tamales studded with raisins, cinnamon, peanuts, and sugar, all wrapped up in corn husks and steamed for hours. Pork tamales were the only ones served in restaurants when I was growing up back in the Jurassic Era of the 1960's and 1970's. They were all covered in red chili sauce (Las Palmas Chili Sauce, which you can still find in L. A. supermarkets), and shredded cheddar cheese. This is what passed for good tamales when I was growing up. It's a wonder I grew up at all with those "artificial" tamales.







Sarah Palin and the Tea Partiers (I should get a royalty check for giving some new musicians to LA the name for their band, after they answer casting calls at Paramount and live off of tamales until they crack the Big Time) would yell and tell me otherwise but the GREAT LATINO IMMIGRATION WAVE of the 1980's brought real and varied and creative tamales to Los Angeles.







Just for starters: tamales were not just Mexican anymore. With the refugees from Guatemala, El Salvador, and Nicaragua came fat pillows of corn patties made with chicken, seafood, beef, blended with sliced green olives? capers? bell peppers? chunks of potatoes? and, most shocking of all, wrapped in banana leaves and tied in string? You betcha, as Sarah and some of her Tea Partiers would say. Add to that the immigrants from smaller though consistent streams of Colombian, Ecuadoran, Peruvian, Chilean, Cuban, Honduran, and Argentinian immigrants to Los Angeles and you had the beginning of the endless "tamale wars" amongst LAtinos. They may have fought amongst each other and put down their "competitors' " tamales but all Angelenos benefitted from the "fight". Now you had seafood tamales, cheese and green chili tamales, vegetable tamales, pureed raspberry and goat cheese tamales, and for the very vegan in the city (and one of my two favorite tamales): green corn tamales, served Salvadoran-style, with pureed refried beans and Salvadoran rice. By 1985, an Angeleno could walk a 10-block square of Hollywood and eat his or her way across 10 Latin American countries just by eating tamales. Yummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!







Tamales became a Bel-Air sensation thanks to the nannies and gardeners that care for the Bel-Aireans' homes. The damas of the multimillion-dollar casas loved the taste, wrappings, and stories of their nannies and gardeners pasting and wrapping hundreds of tamales with their families, assembly-line like, at Christmas. Before you could say "Montana Avenue", Los Angeles Magazine, LA Weekly, and the Times were all publishing where to buy the best tamales and sharing tamale recipes. Tamale parties given by people whose ancestors ran away from the Czars of Russia, the grand dukes of Italy, and the sultans of Turkey were hosting tamale parties in Mandeville Canyon, Beverly Hills, and Tarzana as if they were Frida Kahlo's grandmothers. Along with the burrito, cheeseburger, and Dodger dog, the tamale (and the parties to make them) became as Angeleno as I am.







Owing to the overwhelming numbers of Mexicans living in Los Angeles, the city has seen the richness, creativity, and profusion of the thousands of varieties of tamales found in Mexico. Koreatown in December would be unthinkable without tamales de mole at Guelaguetza, a chain of restaurants serving the foods of Oaxaca, Mexico. Lines that would make the Olympic Games green with envy are found on weekends and in December at Liliana's Tamales, Sandra and Lolita's, Mama's Hot Tamales Cafe or any of the street vendors selling tamales throughout the city. The Border Grill girls, Susan Feniger, and Mary Sue Milliken, made their empire based on tamales that no one had ever seen before, not even in Latin America :-). The greater, more recent immigration of southern Mexicans has brought an array of vegetarian tamales with pungent aromas, often seasoned with mole or sauces of various colors and spiciness. A tamale filled with huitlacoche, corn fungus that has the smokiness and texture of wild mushrooms, topped with a white cream sauce, garnished with sesame seeds is to know Heaven.







There have been tamale festivals in various parts of the city at different times in the last 10 years but they've all bowed out before the granddaddy (or is it el abuelito?) of all tamale festivals: the annual Tamale Festival held in Indio, California. There are literally dozens of vendors spread out of a half-mile square area selling from the most traditional to the most avant-garde. Goat cheese tamales? Beer batter tamales? Mango and green chili tamales? Go east, young man! Go east, young woman (or any man or woman) to Indio and park with thousands of tamale fans, fiends, and Facebook friends, all savoring, enjoying, weirding out (sometimes), and eating L. A.'s very own snack: the tamale.







Happy New Year! Many Tamales To You!




The Best Tamales in Los Angeles, 2011:





Mama's Hot Tamales Cafe



2122 W. 7th Street, just w. of Alvarado St.



Los Angeles, CA 90057



http://www.mamashottamales.com/





Liliana's Tamales



(two of four locations in East L. A.)



4629 E. Cesar Chavez Ave.



Los Angeles, CA 90022



(323) 780-0829



3448 1st Street



Los Angeles, CA 90063



(323) 780-0989





The Border Grill



various locations in Southern California



http://www.bordergrill.com/





Antojitos Bibi (Honduran Tamales)



2400 W. 7th Street, Suite 109



Los Angeles, CA 90057



(213) 385-8595





La Adelita Food Company (Nicaraguan, Salvadoran, and Mexican Tamales)



1287 S. Union Avenue, cr. Pico Blvd.



Los Angeles, CA 90015





El Caserio (Ecuadoran Humitas)



Two locations in Silver Lake



http://www.elcaseriola.com/





Rincon Chileno (Chilean Humitas)



4354 Melrose Avenue



Los Angeles, CA 90029



(323) 666-6075





La Casita Colombiana (Colombian Tamales)



4903 Melrose Avenue



Los Angeles, CA 90029



(323) 463-8542





Venezuelan Hallacas



Michelangelo Ristorante, Silver Lake



2742 Rowena Avenue



Los Angeles, CA 90039



(323) 660-4843



http://www.michelangelo-silverlake.com/





Michelangelo is an Italian restaurant run by a Venezuelan family, in which the matriarch of the family is a Venezuelan lady who immigrated to Venezuela as a child from Italy. Off the regular menu, if you ask her (Domenica), she prepares Venezuelan foods, especially hallacas, for sale. Each hallaca costs approximately $4.00.

Indio Tamale Festival

http://www.tamalefestival.net/